Coq au Riesling
Alsatian Braised Chicken with Dry Riesling, Mushrooms, Leeks & Cream
Ingredients
Group 1: The Chicken & Pancetta
- 3 lbs 1.3–1.5 kg bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks — thighs preferred
- 4 oz 115g pancetta, cut into small cubes (or thick-cut lardons)
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Group 2: The Aromatics
- 2 medium leeks — white and pale green parts only halved lengthwise, sliced thin, washed well
- 2 garlic cloves finely minced
- 8 oz 225g cremini mushrooms, sliced — or a mix of cremini and shiitake
Group 3: The Braising Liquid
- 1½ cups 375ml dry Alsatian Riesling — use one you would drink alongside the dish
- 1 cup 240ml good-quality chicken stock — low-sodium preferred
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried
- 1 bay leaf
Group 4: The Cream Finish
- ¾ cup 180ml heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- Salt and white pepper to taste
- Small squeeze of lemon juice to brighten at the end — optional
Group 5: To ServeR
- Rich Egg Yolk Pasta Dough see separate recipe — or dried egg noodles, cooked to package instructions
- Creme Fraiche or sour cream
- Fresh flat-leaf parsley roughly chopped
- Flaky sea salt for finishing
Instructions
Render the Pancetta
- Set a large Dutch oven or heavy braising pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil and pancetta cubes.
- Cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden at the edges. It should be tender-crisp, not hard. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pan.
Sear the Chicken
- Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels — moisture is the enemy of a good sear. Season generously all over with salt and pepper.
- Raise the heat to medium-high. Add the butter to the pancetta fat. When the butter foam subsides, add the chicken skin-side down. Do not crowd the pan — work in batches if needed.
- Sear without moving for 6–7 minutes until the skin is deep golden brown. Flip and sear the other side for 4 minutes. Remove the chicken and set aside with the pancetta.
Build the Braise
- Reduce the heat to medium. Add the sliced leeks to the fat in the pan. Cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and just beginning to turn translucent. Season lightly with salt.
- Add the garlic and mushrooms. Cook for another 5–6 minutes until the mushrooms have released their liquid and the pan is mostly dry again.
- Pour in the Riesling and scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan — that fond is flavor. Add the chicken stock, thyme, and bay leaf.
- Return the chicken pieces and pancetta to the pan. The liquid should come about halfway up the chicken; add a splash more stock if needed. Bring to a gentle simmer.
- Cover and cook over low heat for 35–40 minutes, until the chicken is completely tender and pulls easily from the bone. Avoid a rolling boil — you want a quiet, steady simmer.
Finish and Serve
- Lift the chicken out and set aside on a warm plate. Remove the bay leaf. Raise the heat to medium and let the braising liquid reduce for 5–6 minutes until slightly thickened.
- Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the heavy cream and Dijon mustard. Simmer gently for 3–4 minutes until the sauce is silky and coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice.
- Return the chicken to the pan and spoon the sauce over to coat. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving — the sauce will thicken slightly as it cools.
- Serve directly from the Dutch oven if possible, over homemade wide noodles. Finish with fresh parsley and a pinch of flaky salt. Optional: serve (as I do) with a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream, if desired.
Notes
Attribution: This recipe is adapted from Nigella Lawson's Coq au Riesling (How to Eat, 1998 / nigella.com), with modifications including the use of pancetta in place of lardons, the addition of Dijon mustard in the cream finish, and a slightly adjusted liquid ratio. Served here over Rich Egg Pasta (wide egg noodles) rather than the traditional spaetzle.
On the wine in the pan: Use the same bottle you'll drink alongside the dish — an Alsatian Riesling in the $18–25 range is exactly right. The wine's acidity is what keeps the braise from tasting heavy. Do not use a cooking wine or anything you wouldn't drink.
The sear matters: Dry the chicken completely before searing — moisture creates steam and prevents browning. The color you build in the sear adds depth to the finished sauce. Take the time to do it properly, in batches if necessary.
Make-ahead: This dish improves overnight. Make it through the finish step, cool completely, and refrigerate. The fat will set on the surface and can be skimmed before reheating. Reheat gently, covered, on the stovetop with a splash of stock if the sauce has thickened too much. Add the fresh parsley when serving.
On the noodles: Homemade wide egg noodles are the companion dish (see our Rich Egg Pasta Dough recipe). If using dried egg noodles or pappardelle, cook to package instructions and toss with a small amount of butter before plating so they don't stick.
Wine pairing: Serve with the same dry Alsatian Riesling used in the dish — the continuity between the braising wine and the glass is part of the point. A dry Alsatian Pinot Gris also works well if you want more body and spice in the glass.
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