Mushroom risotto is earthy and rich in umami, which can make young Cabernet taste harsh. Why an aged Maipo Cabernet works, and how to set up the plate.
3/4cupfinely grated Parmigiano-Reggianoplus shavings to serve
2tablespoonschopped flat-leaf parsley
Instructions
Soak the porcini. Cover the dried porcini with the hot water and soak 30 minutes. Lift them out, squeeze gently, and chop. Strain the soaking liquid through a paper towel or fine sieve into the stock, leaving any grit behind. Keep the stock at a bare simmer.
Brown the fresh mushrooms. In the risotto pot, heat 1 tablespoon butter and the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add half the mushrooms in a single layer and cook without stirring for 2 to 3 minutes, until browned, then stir and cook 2 minutes more. Repeat with the rest. Add garlic, thyme, and the chopped porcini for the final minute; season and set aside.
Toast the rice. Lower the heat to medium. Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil and the shallots to the same pot and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir 2 minutes, until the grains are coated and the edges look translucent.
Add the wine. Pour in the white wine and stir until it is almost fully absorbed.
Add the stock slowly. Add hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until most of it is absorbed before adding the next. Continue 18 to 22 minutes, until the rice is tender with a slight bite and the risotto is creamy and loose.
Finish. Stir in about two-thirds of the mushrooms. Off the heat, add the cold butter and grated Parmigiano and stir vigorously for 30 seconds. Add a final splash of stock if it seems stiff; it should flow. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve. Spoon into warm shallow bowls. Top with the remaining mushrooms, Parmigiano shavings, parsley, and cracked pepper. Serve at once.
Notes
Notes
Rice matters. Arborio is widely available; Carnaroli holds its shape a little better and makes an especially creamy risotto. Do not rinse the rice.
Keep the stock hot. Cold stock slows the cooking and makes the risotto gluey.
Brown in batches. Crowded mushrooms steam instead of browning, and the browned edges carry most of the flavor.
Vegetarian version. Use vegetable stock and a vegetarian hard cheese in place of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is traditionally made with animal rennet.
Make ahead. Cook the risotto about three-quarters of the way, spread it on a sheet pan to cool, and refrigerate. Finish with hot stock, butter, and cheese just before serving.
Leftovers. Chilled leftover risotto makes excellent arancini or crisp risotto cakes.
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