In November, I stood in the courtyard of the Hospices de Beaune the day before the auction.

The setup was already underway — the barrels arranged, the logistics of one of the world’s oldest wine charity events taking shape around us. I had known about this auction for years. Studied it. Taught it. But standing inside it, in the courtyard of a 15th-century hôtel-Dieu built to care for the poor of Burgundy, the barrels of wine that would sell the following day lined up in the candlelit cellar — I understood something about this region that no textbook had quite delivered.

The wine is not incidental to Burgundy. It is structural. It has funded hospitals, shaped politics, defined an entire civilisation’s idea of what the land is worth. And it sells, still, by the barrel — because the barrel is the unit of measure that has always made sense here. We were, frankly, shocked. A single barrel. Not a case, not a bottle. A barrel.

This week we begin Burgundy. Not a single wine, not a single village — the whole complex, extraordinary, occasionally maddening region. Consider this the foundation.

Where Burgundy Is and Why It Matters

Burgundy — Bourgogne in French — sits in eastern France, running roughly north to south for about 250 kilometres from Auxerre in the north to Lyon in the south. It is not a large region. The entire appellation produces less wine in a year than a single major Bordeaux château might. What it produces, in its finest expressions, is considered by many wine professionals to be the closest thing wine has to a benchmark.

The reason is terroir — and Burgundy is where the concept of terroir became a philosophy. The idea that the specific patch of ground a vine grows in shapes the wine in ways that cannot be replicated elsewhere, that two vineyards fifty metres apart can produce wines of entirely different character, that the soil, the slope, the drainage, and the microclimate matter as much as the grape or the winemaker — this idea was not invented in Burgundy, but it was refined, mapped, and codified here over centuries with an obsessive precision found nowhere else.

The Grapes

Burgundy is built on two grapes. Chardonnay for white, Pinot Noir for red. That is almost the entire story, which is part of what makes the region so instructive: the same two varieties, grown across hundreds of different named vineyard sites, produce wines of extraordinary range and distinction.

Two other grapes exist in Burgundy and deserve a brief mention for the complete picture. Aligoté is a white grape — leaner, sharper, higher in acidity than Chardonnay — traditionally used to make Bourgogne Aligoté, a lighter white wine and the traditional base for Kir (Aligoté with a splash of blackcurrant liqueur). Gamay, which we explored last week in Beaujolais, is permitted in Burgundy in the Beaujolais appellation and in the blended Passe-Tout-Grains style. Both are minor players. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the story.

This week: Chardonnay in depth, and Chablis as our tasting example — the northernmost, coolest, most mineral expression of what this grape does in Burgundy. Next week: Mâcon, and Chardonnay in an entirely different register. The same grape, very different conversations.

The Classification System

Burgundy’s classification system is one of the most specific and most studied in wine. Understanding it removes a significant amount of confusion from labels and gives you a framework for navigating any Burgundy you encounter.

There are four levels, moving from broadest to most specific:

Régionale (Regional). The widest designation — ‘Bourgogne’ or ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ on the label. Grapes can come from anywhere within the appellation. Reliable, honest, often excellent value. Entry point to the region.

Villages. Wines from a specific village — Gevrey-Chambertin, Meursault, Chambolle-Musigny. The village name appears on the label. A significant step up in character and specificity.

Premier Cru. Named vineyard sites within a village, officially classified as superior. The vineyard name appears on the label alongside the village: ‘Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes.’ These sites have been identified and mapped over centuries as consistently producing finer wine than surrounding parcels.

Grand Cru. The highest classification — 33 vineyard sites across all of Burgundy, standing entirely on their own. No village name required on the label. ‘Chambertin.’ ‘Montrachet.’ ‘Clos de Vougeot.’ These names are sufficient. The vineyards have earned that.

What makes this system remarkable is that it is a map of the land, not of the producers. The same Premier Cru vineyard may have twenty different owners, each making wine from their parcel. The classification belongs to the ground, not the person farming it. This is the terroir philosophy in institutional form.

The Dukes of Burgundy — A Brief Word

Burgundy’s wine culture did not emerge from nowhere. Between the 14th and 15th centuries, the Duchy of Burgundy was one of the most powerful political entities in Europe — wealthier than the French crown at certain points, controlling territory that extended from Burgundy north through the Low Countries. The Valois Dukes — Philip the Bold, John the Fearless, Philip the Good, Charles the Bold — were active patrons of viticulture. Philip the Bold, the same Duke who banished Gamay from Burgundy in 1395 in favour of Pinot Noir, understood that the quality of Burgundy’s wine was an instrument of political prestige. The wine poured at a ducal table was a statement about the power of the territory it came from.

That legacy — of wine as an expression of place and civilisation rather than simply a beverage — is embedded in Burgundy’s culture in a way that still shapes how the region presents itself. The Hospices de Beaune auction, founded in 1859, is a direct continuation of that tradition: the wines of specific vineyards, sold to benefit a hospital, in a ritual that the entire wine world watches. Standing there the day before it happened, I felt the weight of it.

This Week’s Tasting Wine: Chablis

Chablis sits at Burgundy’s northern extreme — geographically closer to Champagne than to the Côte d’Or, on ancient Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils packed with fossilised oyster shells. The climate is cool, the growing season short, the wines it produces unlike anything else Chardonnay makes anywhere else on earth. We explore Chablis in depth on Tuesday and pair it with crab legs on Thursday.

Find a Chablis this week. It does not need to be a Premier Cru — a straightforward Chablis AOP will do. Taste it cold, without food first. Notice the flint, the chalk, the mineral quality that precedes the fruit. That quality is the Kimmeridgian limestone expressing itself through the glass. That is Burgundy.

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