Thursday was sweet meeting sweet. Today is the opposite, and it might be even better: sweet meeting salty. Pour an intensely sweet icewine next to a wedge of pungent blue cheese, gorgonzola, Roquefort, a good Canadian blue, and something that sounds like a mistake turns into a revelation.

It works on pure contrast. Blue cheese is salty, funky and sharp, almost aggressive. Icewine is sweet, honeyed and lush. Each one softens the other’s extreme. The wine’s sugar tames the cheese’s salt and funk, rounding off its sharp edges, and the cheese’s salt and savour keep the wine from feeling too sweet. They meet in the middle, and the middle is delicious. It is the same principle behind the old classic of Sauternes and Roquefort, a reliable truth dressed in Canadian clothes.

Make it a small plate. A wedge of gorgonzola, a handful of walnuts for crunch and a little bitterness, a spoon of honeycomb to bridge the wine and the cheese, and, if you like, a few dried apricots that echo the wine’s own fruit. A tiny pour of icewine alongside. It is a five-minute spread that tastes like an occasion.

And if you have followed the summer, this is the place to close it. Open the off-dry Washington, the bone-dry Finger Lakes, and this sweet Niagara icewine, and taste them in a row, dry to sweet. One journey, three glasses, the whole spectrum of what sweetness can be in a wine. Better, of course, with someone across the table.

Wine was never a solitary thing. It is an ingredient in an evening, and the evening is better shared.

Savour the good stuff.